After the disaster that was the preceeding trial garment, I went back to the drawing board to produce Oaktag Pattern #2.
With this draft, I assumed that there is no seam allowance except at the rear side body seam.
So I was cutting the cloth based on this pattern when it came time to apply the right dropped shoulder correction a la Cabrera. It turns out that Cabrera's method cannot be applied to a pattern without seam allowances! Bummer. I had to scrap so much cloth.
Because of this, I drafted another 3 panels specifically for the right side to take account of the dropped right shoulder. Essentially I applied Cabrera's method, but instead of doing it to the cloth I did it to the paper pattern. I copied the profile of the left panels, then made a horizontal cut through the chest portion from end to end of the paper. I then overlapped the paper 0.25" at the rear side body seam to nothing at the front edge of the front panel. I glued the overlap and reinforced the cut with a strip of paper glued on.
This meant I had 6 pieces of paper for one jacket. A set of 3 for the left side of my body and another set of 3 for the right.
This jacket was cut rather crooked. Distance from e1 to e is 1.5 cm instead of the prescribed 0.5 cm. My understanding is that the more suppressed the waist is, the more crooked the jacket needs to be.
The waist supression is agressive. 2 cm front darts. 1.25 cm supression each side on the front side seam. 2 cm each side on the rear side seam.
There is a gorge dart too, to add convexity to the chest.
With this draft, I assumed that there is no seam allowance except at the rear side body seam.
So I was cutting the cloth based on this pattern when it came time to apply the right dropped shoulder correction a la Cabrera. It turns out that Cabrera's method cannot be applied to a pattern without seam allowances! Bummer. I had to scrap so much cloth.
Because of this, I drafted another 3 panels specifically for the right side to take account of the dropped right shoulder. Essentially I applied Cabrera's method, but instead of doing it to the cloth I did it to the paper pattern. I copied the profile of the left panels, then made a horizontal cut through the chest portion from end to end of the paper. I then overlapped the paper 0.25" at the rear side body seam to nothing at the front edge of the front panel. I glued the overlap and reinforced the cut with a strip of paper glued on.
This meant I had 6 pieces of paper for one jacket. A set of 3 for the left side of my body and another set of 3 for the right.
This jacket was cut rather crooked. Distance from e1 to e is 1.5 cm instead of the prescribed 0.5 cm. My understanding is that the more suppressed the waist is, the more crooked the jacket needs to be.
The waist supression is agressive. 2 cm front darts. 1.25 cm supression each side on the front side seam. 2 cm each side on the rear side seam.
There is a gorge dart too, to add convexity to the chest.
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