I opened up the shoulder seams by 1 cm on the double from the tips to nothing at the neck.
All of a sudden the shoulders fit! The right shoulder is now concave! Please ignore the left shoulder for now. I discovered that I had made 2 right shoulder pads instead of one right, one left. So the left shoulder actually has a shoulder pad made for the right shoulder inserted. Which explains why it looks odd.
Now that the shoulder angle is right, a bunch of other fit problems revealed themselves. These are global problems.
Obvious is the excess of back length, despite my having pinned it up by 2 cm. The back only cleaned up after I pinned it up by 3 cm at the top CB seam tapering to 2 cm near the rear side seam, plus an additional 1.5 cm at the waist.
Looks much better, no? The back has the right balance now, and when I observe myself in the mirror the back looks just right.
The front, however, is far too crooked.
In the draft I made e-e1=1.5 cm instead of the prescribed 0.5 cm. The result is a front that is swinging away, and a neckhole that sits far from the neck. (The right shoulder doesn't look that concave viewed from the front. I wonder why?)
So I had to straighten the neckpoint. I used Cabrera's method of slashing the pattern above the dart and overlapping the edge of the front panel by 2 cm.
(Here you see the slash before glueing.)
The more observant amongst you will also have noticed that the rear neck syce is too low. The Rundschau would have resulted in a higher rear neck syce but I had made it lower by 1.5 cm. Mistakenly, as it turned out.
I bought some Japanese polyester suiting cloth just now for the next Trial Garment. It's a nice mid blue. The next trial garment will be much better!
All of a sudden the shoulders fit! The right shoulder is now concave! Please ignore the left shoulder for now. I discovered that I had made 2 right shoulder pads instead of one right, one left. So the left shoulder actually has a shoulder pad made for the right shoulder inserted. Which explains why it looks odd.
Obvious is the excess of back length, despite my having pinned it up by 2 cm. The back only cleaned up after I pinned it up by 3 cm at the top CB seam tapering to 2 cm near the rear side seam, plus an additional 1.5 cm at the waist.
The front, however, is far too crooked.
So I had to straighten the neckpoint. I used Cabrera's method of slashing the pattern above the dart and overlapping the edge of the front panel by 2 cm.
The more observant amongst you will also have noticed that the rear neck syce is too low. The Rundschau would have resulted in a higher rear neck syce but I had made it lower by 1.5 cm. Mistakenly, as it turned out.
I bought some Japanese polyester suiting cloth just now for the next Trial Garment. It's a nice mid blue. The next trial garment will be much better!
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