Monday, June 27, 2011

Too light

I've been meaning to use a narrow herringbone cloth I bought in Germany for my next suit, but before I drop half a year's worth of my discretionary time into making it up I thought I'd better make sure it is at least 10 oz/sq yard. I weighed it and made some calculations. It is only 220g/sqm, or 7 oz/sq yard. Too light.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Meravigliosa creatura

This blog has a surprising number of visits from Italy. I'm an admirer of Italian aesthetics. Nothing encapsulates it better I think than this advertisement for the Fiat Bravo. I too am trying to conjure up my own meravigliosa creatura -- marvellous creature. I think a coat has the potential to be that.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Taping the front edge

The jacket gains a more finished look with the tape clearly defining the lapel outline.

Canvassed baste fitting TG#4

There are still issues with the back, but I think I will put in the collar and bridle next then bring the thing to MBT for a fitting.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Supplies arrived

Back from left: Tailor's ham for pressing the chest area, pressing mitt for sleeves and shoulders, French collar linen, G├╝termann polyester thread, lifetime supply of Agremann gimp, several lifetimes supply of Tera 180 (10,000 m, enough for 120 bespoke shirts), 6 pairs cotton shoulder pads (softer than poly pads), pine press buck

Front from bottom: Moleskin press buck cover, poly flannel press buck lining, cotton press buck lining. In packet: Cotton flannel, cotton silesia, wool undercollar melton, light wool canvas.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

A singularly beautiful Japanese jacket

A month ago I found this Japanese bespoke number at a thrift shop. I am slowly building up a collection of great bespoke garments I can use as a reference. It is currently being dry cleaned by KL's oldest dry cleaning shop (since 1910). Enjoy.

The finest Milanese lapel buttonhole

A damned fine buttonhole

Japanese jackets often have a pocket on the inside facing

I've never seen working cuffs implemented this way anywhere...

The neatest sleeve lining felling I've seen...

Very busy

I won't be able to resume work on my jacket until sometime next week. My day job requires me to work this Saturday! It has never happened before.