Monday, April 4, 2011

Seam allowance

Trial Garment #1 was sewn on the chalkline, even on the rear side seam where it is obvious to me now that I was supposed to sew 0.75cm inside the chalkline. But Schneidergott wrote that certain seams already had seam allowance, so on Trial Garment #2 I sewed 0.75cm inside the chalkline. The results were a disaster -- I couldn't pin the front close! It was that tight.



The next day, I measured my chest girth on a whim. I found that it grew 4 cm between my first Rundschau draft and the second.

It was therefore necessary to come up with another draft.

Trial Garment #2 pictured above had really agressive waist supression, due in part to wrong thinking about darts. The darts measure 3 cm in width.

Cabrera's method for dropped shoulder correction was dutifully applied, except that it was applied to the right shoulder. His book illustrated the case for the dropped left shoulder. You start out as prescribed until the point where you have inserted the first row of pins.
 And now you deviate: You turn the cloth over and gather that side instead.
 Secure the ripple with another row of pins.

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