I was supposed to take it easy today. Pamper myself. Watch a movie, drink excellent coffee, look at nice clothes, etc.
But the rice farmer work ethic took hold of me and I hammered out the back panel of Oaktag Pattern #3. The problem was that I applied Müller & Sohn's (Rundschau) pattern alteration for the over-erect figure and I just wasn't happy with the way the pattern came out distorted. The method is OK for 1/2" corrections, but in my case it was 4.5cm less back balance. Too much to be handled by the old pattern. The was very significant neckpoint migration, shoulder slope change, and armhole shortening.
It took me a long time to figure out how to compress the top of the back panel. Turns out that you don't. In the 50's Müller & Sohn system there is the part where they say "normale Einstellung 4 cm" between G-G1. To shorten the back balance you reduce the distance between G and G1. I settled on 0.5 cm.
But the rice farmer work ethic took hold of me and I hammered out the back panel of Oaktag Pattern #3. The problem was that I applied Müller & Sohn's (Rundschau) pattern alteration for the over-erect figure and I just wasn't happy with the way the pattern came out distorted. The method is OK for 1/2" corrections, but in my case it was 4.5cm less back balance. Too much to be handled by the old pattern. The was very significant neckpoint migration, shoulder slope change, and armhole shortening.
It took me a long time to figure out how to compress the top of the back panel. Turns out that you don't. In the 50's Müller & Sohn system there is the part where they say "normale Einstellung 4 cm" between G-G1. To shorten the back balance you reduce the distance between G and G1. I settled on 0.5 cm.
No comments:
Post a Comment