Fitting the back

Finally, after such a long time, the back will be fitted. Except that it doesn't seem to need much fitting.

The back of TG#4 has always been a war zone. Earlier on in the muslin stage, I had the back balance reduced very dramatically -- by something like 4 cm -- and yet it looked awful. Yet the back is marvellously clean the moment I scooped out the armhole and inserted the collar.

I have come to believe that a jacket should only be fitted with

a) the canvas inserted

b) the collar inserted

c) and the armhole close to final shape.

Without the canvas, chest drape is likely to manifest itself as excess front balance. Without the collar, the lapels are not suspended, giving the very real impression of excess front balance. The back panels are also badly suspended without the collar, forming all kinds of strange creases which are difficult to diagnose and which cause much anxiety for the fitter. The armholes, if not low enough or not properly scooped out, cause distortion elsewhere in the jacket.

I have no faith whatsoever in the utility of the uncanvassed muslin trial garment as a basis for fit. It was downright misleading and difficult to read in my case.

It is a miracle how the back has turned out given that I had to adjust the pattern by peering through the fog of creases and distortions that are inherent in the uncanvassed, uncollared trial garment.

You may also notice that the back does not look very suppressed. I have never understood why tailors use the side seam to do all the waist suppression while taking out a tepid 0.5" from the front darts and a minor amount from the underarm seam. I did things things in reverse here: the side seam is supressed less than the underarm seam and the front darts are 3/4".