The shoulder seam has gone through two big changes in TG#4. I let out the seams at the shoulder tip by 1 cm on the double. This solved the bunching at the neck caused by the jacket being more suited to a square shouldered figuration. However, the result was exasperating --- the front balance was still way too long. How this is even remotely possible was incomprehensible to me. After all, TG#4 was cut from a pattern that has had a ¾“ horizontal wedge cut out from its forepart front edge to reduce the front balance length. How the front balance remains long after such an operation was beyond me!
Then it occured to me that it may be due to the ironwork. I remember stretching the lapel roll line. There was no choice but to change the shoulder seam again. I took up ½“ from the forepart at the neckpoint.
I intentionally left in some uncorrected front balance length. The process of inserting and drawing in the bridle will shorten the front balance by 3/8“.
It is not clear to me if it is a good idea to judge the front balance of a jacket in an uncanvassed state. There is extra length as well as width in the front that is supposed to be propped up by the canvas. Which was why instead of fiddling with the fit I decided to put in the pockets and canvas before conducting a proper first fitting.
It occured to me that it is a good idea to have a straight edge to the quarters during the first fitting. A straight front edge would make any front balance issues more obvious.
TG#4 in its present state appears a little short. But overall length is something that should be adjusted only after the balance and shoulder slope issues have been sorted out.
Then it occured to me that it may be due to the ironwork. I remember stretching the lapel roll line. There was no choice but to change the shoulder seam again. I took up ½“ from the forepart at the neckpoint.
I intentionally left in some uncorrected front balance length. The process of inserting and drawing in the bridle will shorten the front balance by 3/8“.
It is not clear to me if it is a good idea to judge the front balance of a jacket in an uncanvassed state. There is extra length as well as width in the front that is supposed to be propped up by the canvas. Which was why instead of fiddling with the fit I decided to put in the pockets and canvas before conducting a proper first fitting.
It occured to me that it is a good idea to have a straight edge to the quarters during the first fitting. A straight front edge would make any front balance issues more obvious.
TG#4 in its present state appears a little short. But overall length is something that should be adjusted only after the balance and shoulder slope issues have been sorted out.
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