The Undercollar: Part 2

It really did take hours of work, this collar.

The collar of the jacket is comprised of three layers of very different materials. If you look under the collar you see a wooly felt-like material not unlike carpet. This is the dark material you see a bit of in the picture above. It is called the collar melton. On top of this is the brown material called a French collar canvas. It is made of linen. In the picture above, the collar melton and the French collar canvas has been married together to form what is called the undercollar by means of hundreds of little fishbone-like stitches called pad stitches. Though the undercollar looks flat in the picture, it actually is curved towards the melton allowing it to hug the neck better.

Once installed on the jacket, the undercollar is covered by the suiting cloth thus hiding the French collar canvas.