Too light

I've been meaning to use a narrow herringbone cloth I bought in Germany for my next suit, but before I drop half a year's worth of my discretionary time into making it up I thought I'd better make sure it is at least 10 oz/sq yard. I weighed it and made some calculations. It is only 220g/sqm, or 7 oz/sq yard. Too light.

Meravigliosa creatura

This blog has a surprising number of visits from Italy. I'm an admirer of Italian aesthetics. Nothing encapsulates it better I think than this advertisement for the Fiat Bravo. I too am trying to conjure up my own meravigliosa creatura -- marvellous creature. I think a coat has the potential to be that.

Taping the front edge

The jacket gains a more finished look with the tape clearly defining the lapel outline.

Canvassed baste fitting TG#4

There are still issues with the back, but I think I will put in the collar and bridle next then bring the thing to MBT for a fitting.

Supplies arrived

Back from left: Tailor's ham for pressing the chest area, pressing mitt for sleeves and shoulders, French collar linen, Gütermann polyester thread, lifetime supply of Agremann gimp, several lifetimes supply of Tera 180 (10,000 m, enough for 120 bespoke shirts), 6 pairs cotton shoulder pads (softer than poly pads), pine press buck

Front from bottom: Moleskin press buck cover, poly flannel press buck lining, cotton press buck lining. In packet: Cotton flannel, cotton silesia, wool undercollar melton, light wool canvas.

Padding the lapels

Didn't really intend to start with padding but felt moved to do it.

Done with canvassing

A singularly beautiful Japanese jacket

A month ago I found this Japanese bespoke number at a thrift shop. I am slowly building up a collection of great bespoke garments I can use as a reference. It is currently being dry cleaned by KL's oldest dry cleaning shop (since 1910). Enjoy.

The finest Milanese lapel buttonhole

A damned fine buttonhole

Japanese jackets often have a pocket on the inside facing

I've never seen working cuffs implemented this way anywhere...

The neatest sleeve lining felling I've seen...



Very busy

I won't be able to resume work on my jacket until sometime next week. My day job requires me to work this Saturday! It has never happened before.